Відео

The amperage made a huge difference! Once I hooked up 1000W PS (50v at 20A), even dropping to 40v (800W) it took about 1.75 seconds for .223 to start glowing and it took 3 seconds for .308 to glow where as with original PS it took a whopping 24 seconds!

@@DimaProk that's kind of my point I know you're after speed. But you're also going to glowing red, which is too much. So if you increase your time or lower your voltage, it'll give you more latitude. You're probably fully anealed. Just that Steam comes off and before it turns red, your fully anealed

@@cw2a You know I though the voltage would play a bigger role but its amperage that really matters. Increasing from 36v to 42v I expected to be at least 1 second faster but it wasn't. It seems like 10A is good enough for .223 but definitely not for .308. Keeping the time shorter also reduces heat produced in the coil and at the board itself. Those capacitors get real hot if you operate continuously and will burn out as it happened with my 1st board when I didn't use water cooled coil. I am going to add a fan to blow on top of it. Have you seen Eric Cortina's video where he over annealed the cases to 20 seconds and STILL took the same force to seat the bullet. Its pretty shocking! I will tell you though that a thinner 223 based cartridges don't behave the same. I remember I over annealed my 300 HAM'R brass and was struggling to keep the neck tension. I could push the bullet in if I pushed against the desk. It definitely surprising results though with his brass. ua-cam.com/video/9HfjRKrbYbo/v-deo.htmlsi=c3eXKoz5KlGCVDF5 Once I get my timer which I had purchased for this project like 6-7 years ago setup (finding instruction manual will be fun) and connected to Solid State Relay, I can dial in exact time I need it. I aim for when it just starts to glow, like dark red that's when I consider it done. I do have Tempilaq I can use to verify but I found it you don't really need it.

Hey Jeff! Glad to hear it from you. This project is long overdue. I can't wait to get everything setup so it runs in automated mode where all you have to do is fill up the hopper with brass and I can work on something else. I've been using the torch annealer I made which is single fed and last time it took me nearly an hour to anneal some of my brass!

Thanks, but I am also scared to wire outlets lol. I've needed to wire out 240v outlet for ages, but waiting for my uncle to do it.

Sorry, I stopped making them. Check out Powder Valley or Dave Mattison on fb.

I think it depends on what your goal is. If you're just trying to get some trigger time on steel and save some $, flat base and PC is fast and easy. A gas check gives you a flat even base which is important for accuracy, I even put them on Zinc bullets and noticed accuracy advantage. When the bullet is cast there is a small cavity or a stub in the base once sprue is cut. I've seen Powder Valley selling GC makers now and on sale they were cheap!

My oppologies, I stopped making them. Powder Valley actually started selling them.

Powder Valley sales one for 9mm but I didn’t see anything for 30 cal.

​@@jasonkrohn5416I've seen 30 cal there sometime ago on sale, heck of a deal!

For flat base bullets I use that sometimes. But for "normal" cast rifle bullet you need thick enough matetial to fill the gap and stay on.

Glad to hear! LOL, I didn't realize I uploaded this publicly! 😁

Actually, they drop out from the mold pretty identical once you get going and keep the pace the same. This bullet is just bigger around .312 - .313" by design for 7.62 hence the name 7.62mm-130-SPL and combined with hard lead can be quite difficult to size it down to .309, especially with gas check and without the lube. Lee says to use lube during sizing, but since I normally powder coat later, I can't have the lube

Nah, it's a myth. If it was bad as you say then surely people would have their barrels ruined but with commercial companies selling Aluminum gas checks by thousands for decades surely you would have heard of someone complaining of the ruined barrels, but I have not heard of anyone complaining about their barrel was ruined with aluminum gas checks. Aluminum oxide is the whitish "rust" you see formed on aluminum and I have only seen that on aluminum at scrap yard that has been exposed to elements and that has been sitting there for a long time. I have not seen even a hint of that on the commercial aluminum roll I use to make my gas checks. Yes, copper is nice no argument there but I was not able to source it in .014" thickness. I bought some off ebay in 0.2mm thickness and that made really nice gas checks for .224 and 6.5mm calibers. It was somewhat affordable about $11 for 3.9" x 39" roll from China, the size is in Metric, about .008" thick (0.2mm). They also have 0.3mm which is ok for something like .357 but not thick enough for 30 cal or similar. Until I find a cheaper source right now it simply costs too much.

@@DimaProk Sorry.. nobody makes aluminium gas checks commercially. They are all copper. All aluminium has a coating of oxide. Aluminium is so reactive that oxide forms almost immediately it comes in contact with the air. You only need a small amount of oxide to make it abrasive. Aluminium is only used in aircraft cannon ammunition to save weight, but the chambers wear out very quickly and have to be replaced often, however air forces think this is worth it for the weight saved. Sorry friend, you have got this one wrong..When Sierra start to make aluminium jackets and gas checks I might believe you!

@@felixthecat265 That's not true, Sages a commercial company makes and sells both aluminum and copper gas checks. Are you trying to tell me that if I take a piece of aluminum foil and rub it against a metal like a barrel it will have the same effect as sandpaper? That is not true and anyone can check that for themselves. Did you know that paper is very abrasive too, and yet there are people, who paper patch bullets. Did you know that primers use crushed glass to help ignite and that's very abrasive as well and gets deposited in the barrel with each shot. Did you know that Russian ammo uses mild steel as bullet jackets? I would be more worried about that wearing out my barrel than aluminum gas checks. From what I've read the most common barrel wear happens in the throat corrosion, which happens not from the bullet friction but from super hot gasses when powder ignites and burns.

@@DimaProk Yes thank you.. I do know all that. I was an ammunition technical officer for more than 30 years. I also studied metallurgy and explosive chemistry. Aluminium oxide is extremely abrasive, even in small quantities. It is what some grinding wheels are made from! Paper, mild steel and copper are all softer and less abrasive than aluminium oxide. It is not the aluminium that is the problem it is the oxide! Gas checks are designed to limit the flow of gar around the base of the bullet, but if the gas check is aluminium it will not only spray oxide up the barrel but create more by burning off the aluminium to oxide. But you obviously know better than this, so go ahead and wear out your barrel for the sake of a few pennies..

@@felixthecat265I don't claim that I know better, just going off my experiences and what makes common sense. Maybe if I shot thousands and thousands of rounds I would have a clearer picture but then, how do you even measure that, without having another identical barrel side by side that shot the exact same ammo except with copper gas checks. Also consider this, a gas check is somewhere between 50 - 80 thousands tall, there isn't that much bearing surface area, unlike the aluminum rounds you mentioned in aircraft guns. Also consider that the roofing company could be applying a coating of some sort to prevent oxidation on the rolls of aluminum that I use to make GCs. And lastly; I powder coat the whole bullet with gas check on as well so that's a layer that protects and limits exposure to bare metal. You mentioned saving pennies over copper GC. That might be true if you're buying copper vs. aluminum GCs but if I am making my own the difference is pretty much goes from near free to unable to even find a copper sheet in 0.014" thickness. There is also another aspect; each time there is a shortage you can't find components like gas checks for sale anywhere. Having the ability to make your own is freedom. Also speaking of wearing out your barrels, I don't think I worry too much about wearing out $150 barrel on AR15 and a typical hunter with his $300 Savage axis is not going to notice 1/2 MOA difference. After all, shooting lead cast bullets is not going to be accurate for most people anyway as jacketed bullets so in the end it doesn't matter for a typical shooter.

​@@DimaProkhi were do we orser

@@hprefol2440 I stopped making them.

Well the upper is long gone, but I shoot 99.9% my reloads anyway.

Yes, it's 1:14" twist rate, one of Bill Wilson's personal ones. It must have been experimental or something because they don't sell anything like that. Shoots really well. I also have 1:13 that I picked up during sale but haven't mounted and 1:15 for my Ruger bolt action - love that rifle, it's 16" only though.

I have the plans linked in original video. 5/16 is not enough for the body, you need at least 3/4" and then you'll have to figure out how you're going to attach it to the ram. I machine the shellholder to fit regular reloading press. Also the punch is hollow inside, it punches and forms gas check and strips it off the pin and collected gas checks come out the top, if you take Lee punch how are going to mount it? Besides being poorly machined and not hardened like mine they're also the wrong size. I mean if you have a ram with a hole in the center you could reverse the dies and have gas checks fall through the ram if the opening is big enough but my understanding the hole in the ram is only big enough for spent primer to fall through. With custom ram it's possible.

@@DimaProk i wish i could email you directly, but here goes here. the original ready bolt is a 7/8 x 14 fine thread. i do not have easy access to a lathe, so i have the first part drilled is .4070 for where the cutting slot will be. the forming taper goes down to .3180 which does fit my .30 cal powder coated cast bullets. i stamped a couple with a punch then pushed them through the unfinished die. they came out ok and fit the base ok too. i was wondering if the punch in the center of the cutter moves or is maybe threaded to allow any adjustment up or down. that was why i ask about just using a lee punch that would need to be drilled out the middle and slightly turn down the outside foe a good fit for the cutter., the put the forming rod up the middle. i still have solid rod and more threaded bolt if this fails. but i would like to get this conquered and try something else.

@@crazylegs-wm6mf My email is in the description. As I mentioned the plans were in my first video in the description but here's the link for you: castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?200965-Easy-to-build-gas-checkmaker Honestly, it's hard for me to visualize what you're trying to accomplish but it seems like you're trying to flip the body and punch and as I mentioned in the previous comment if you do that, you'll end up with a column of gas checks hit the shell holder and start crushing, this is why I have them come out at the top. I deviated from the original plan and made some improvements but basic functionality remains the same. Now I've seen a simpler design that uses an arbor press and honestly it's a better design but most people don't want to spend extra and rather utilize the reloading press but the basic design is the same. Now you mention powder coated .318 bullets. Normally 30 cal bullets will have reduced shank (~.284) to fit a gas check. Because powder coat messes with dimensions and messes with gas check seating I seat and size first and then powder coat altogether. If you got a rare mold that doesn't have GC shank and has a straight flat base bullet, I recommend you size the bullet first and then run it 2nd time to seat flat base gas check punched from pop can but with bullet feeding base first in to Lee sizing die. It works better if you have Lubrisizer for this kind of application. I have a video on plan base gas checks for 9mm but it applies to all calibers ua-cam.com/video/BvjAFgJAF8Y/v-deo.html

i want to thank you for your responses. i have taken a lot of time studying your plans and must say they are great! i am going to back off for a little while to see how i might alter what i have done . i did get a lee .407 punch and it fit exactly in the bottom of the larger drilled out section of the thread all. tried to punch a piece of pop can from the bottom since i had not cut the slot in the side to punch yet. i was surprised it cut clean. i actually pushed it up to the inner taper. just for fun i changed to the smaller punch i used to size because of the post powder coat and it folded around the end of the punch and actually pushed up the inside the bolt. tried it on the bottom of the bullet, it fit perfectly. any way i am going to return to your build. going back and see where mine could be changed to work like yours. thanks for your plans. Would it be possible to ever video how you really build one? thanks so much again!!!!!!

Thanks Bill! I sent you a reply couple days ago, I hope you received it.

Yep, I remember seeing one when I was just getting in to reloading but they are pricy.

0.13 inches = 0,33mm. 0.12" = 0.3mm this might work or might be a little small especially the older lyman molds prefer thicker gas checks. 0.14 (0.355mm) or even 0.15 (0.38mm).

I found these bullets work really well with my gas checks but other bullets can still spin when seated, they also shoot really well out of 300 HAM'R which has a much slower more suitable twist rate for lead cast bullets.

@@DimaProk My gas checks spin. Perhaps that will change after powder coating.

@@leadsmith5873 Are you punching your own or purchasing from Sages? If you punch your own go up to .014" thick rolls from Amerimax (I found the actual measurements to be around 13+ thousands). As I mentioned with this NOE bullet and several others they work real well with Gibraltar rolls from Home Depot for me. Your mold and alloy might be slightly different, I size them with push through Lee die to .310, it was .309 die that I opened up and they don't spin. Most of the time I prefer to seat gas checks first and powder coat later. Sometimes I seat them later and sometimes I first seat them with a seating jig I made and size them after, this way I know they will seat very solid.

@@DimaProk No I'm not punching my own. I have a box of Hornaday .308 checks that I"m using. They are being seated on an NOE 314 164gr round nose flat point. I'm seating them on an old Lyman 45 Lube Sizer. They seat nice and flat and look squared. BUT, they do spin. I wasn't sure if this was a problem.

I wrote you email.... God I miss Willie... my heart aches every time I think about him :((( RIP Willie, I wish you didn't have to go so soon.

@@DimaProk Yeah. He pops up on my searches all the time. I smile everytime.

shoot me a message dimaprokgc@gmail.com

Send me email, its in description.

you mean blueprints? I have it in description.

Greetings!

Yes, that's normally that's the case. But some people have told me that the only way they could stop leading was to put a gas check on. I normally don't use it on 9mm or 38 special but on 357 I do like to push it hard and I will use a plain base gas check on it. This also works for 9mm lead bullets in 357. Hopefully when the group buy takes off for 135gr HP bullet with traditional gas check I'll use a lot of that.

@@DimaProk I normally get fair results with blending a bit of TIN & ANTIMONY into my alloy. A 1% increase in tin, increases BRINNEL by about .32. And for antimony the same increases it by .92. What I discovered is that in CARBINE length barrels, more alloy is needed because they begin to break down in the longer barrels. I use plain straight linotype in my rifle bullets. I just add a bit more tin. Gas checked 150 gr & 170 gr in my MARLIN 336 work fine that way.

@@DimaProk They are likely using an alloy mix that is way too soft.

@@DimaProk What I recently posted may NOT NECESSARILY apply to 44mag. Those may likely need a bit of tin & antimony, even in short pistol barrels. The pressures there are high enough to call for that.

@@lestergillis8171 Linotype already has 4% tin in it, I see no reason to add more. Tin helps to fill out mold more than anything and general info is that 1-2% is plenty so I would save my tin for other alloys like wheel weights. I used to be obsess about casting hard bullets and water quenching - well not anymore. There is a magic ingredient Arsenic in WW that can really harden the alloy if you water quench like upwards of BHN 30. Someday when I have more time I'll do the thorough testing of hardness vs accuracy but for now I push powder coated bullets out of my 300 HAM'R around 2350 fps and no leading but this is using "regular" type of gas check (homemade aluminum). Even though I have a lot of linotype (probably around 600-700lb) I don't cast directly from it. I think it's too brittle as is, maybe it's a good thing since I shoot target only but my alloy is for a 20lb pot I put about 3lb of Lino the rest WW and around 2% tin. The hardness is not an issue and pretty sure it exceeds straight lino over the time as it hardens also the fact that my linotype might be actually be foundry type which is even harder. I've cast some wadcutters that I need to test for hardness, it's been a month or two so they should be fully hardened by now.

Young Reezy :) that's a good question. I have descent neighbours. The relative that lives one house over says she can hear it while in her house! but I never got any complains, after all the other neighbor kids would throw firecrackers months after 4th of July that I had to finally tell them to stop. My worst fear is scarring the shit out of mailman or Amazon delivery 😄😄😄

Xорошо :) Но моя аудиенция в Америке, потому что я тут вырос 31 год.

Yep! Their stuff is expensive but I got great deal on used trimmer. You can actually buy the trimmer and set it up on single stage or even Hornady LNL progressive which I did at first before I got Dillon RL1100.

Oh and I did make a 1 gallon bucket of 300 blackout brass as well after this :)